As I mentioned a couple of posts ago, Scott and I had the honor and privilege of traveling in Tanzania during the month of June.
I came home with about 3,000 photos, and even though that means my photos represent 3 million words according to the old adage, there is no way to adequately tell the story of our journey. I guess that's been part of the reason for my procrastination about writing/posting anything about it.
Simply put, it was awesome. That's an overused word, but it's used literally here.
One of the highlights of our trip was our 4-day trek up Mount Meru, which is the 2nd highest mountain in Tanzania after Mount Kilimanjaro (the highest peak in Africa). Meru is an active volcano that most recently erupted about a century ago. (There were 2 earthquakes while we were on the mountain, which I have to admit made me a little nervous.)
Mount Meru is the topographic centerpiece of Arusha National Park. Its slopes support a forest that hosts wildlife including elephants, cape buffalo, innumerable species of birds, monkeys, and big cats including leopards. For this reason, parties climbing Meru are required to travel with an armed ranger--which is both a little intimidating and, let's be real, kinda bad-ass.
I chose Meru because I assumed it would be an easier climb than Kilimanjaro and I had limited mountaineering experience. I might have done more research before drawing that conclusion. On our first day of the trek, I casually asked our guide/ranger Matthew, who'd climbed both mountains many times, how they compared.
"Well," he said thoughtfully, "anyone who climbs Meru can climb Kili. But not everyone who climbs Kili can climb Meru. This mountain is much steeper, and the summit day is much more difficult."
If I'd known what I was getting into ahead of time, I am pretty sure I would have bailed. Without question, this trek was the most difficult physical challenge I've ever encountered. Counting both directions, we covered 27 vertical miles in 4 days, and believe me when I tell you that's more than it sounds like.
After 2 arduous days of climbing reasonably passable but steep trails, the climbing on our summit day started at 2 am and it took us 12 hours round trip--including formidable rock scrambling, hiking up steep slopes covered with scree and volcanic ash, and generally terrifying terrain, all done in the dark during our ascent.
The summit had a bizarre and frustrating way of receding before our eyes; every time we thought our ascent was imminent, it would seem to move 500 meters further from our reach.
For large parts of our summit day, I made the climb 2 or 3 steps at a time. I could think no further ahead, so I didn't. I made a simple decision at some point: I would keep going unless I started throwing up, I felt like a had a burning dagger through my skull (both symptoms of acute mountain sickness), or my body simply could not go any further.
None of those things happened, in fact, and we did make the summit--one of the most joyful accomplishments of my life. When I set foot on the peak, I fell to my knees and wept, overwhelmed by relief, happiness, and the beauty of the whole experience.
I couldn't have made it up, and in fact wouldn't have wanted to, without 2 people: my dear man Scott, who couldn't have been more encouraging, and our guide and friend Matthew, who was masterful in setting the pace of the climb and was a wonderful companion, Swahili teacher, and playmate to boot. [MBOGO!]
An unforgettable experience, an unforgettable place. We were so fortunate to see this beautiful part of the planet.
Here are some photos from our expedition; I hope you'll enjoy seeing them as much as we enjoyed taking them:
http://www.kateweb.com/photos.html
More to come!
Love,
Kate